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Preparing Your Boat For The Sailing Season
Posted On 2010-03-31 , 8:57 AM
Having just finished helping a friend ready his yacht (Catalina 32) for the coming sailing season I thought I might just summarise all that we did. The yacht is in good condition so it wasn't an onerous task:
- Last Autumn all the consumables and things that might suffer from the damp were removed whist the yacht over wintered in its marina berth and the water tanks drained down.
- At the same time all the securing lines were checked and we made sure there were sufficient fenders out at the right height to protect the yacht from the floating pontoon it is moored too, often fenders can work under the pontoon edge providing little or no protection to the yacht hull.
- We then had a significant wait for an available slot to lift out the yacht onto the park, so it is always wise to think ahead and book a slot early on if you can.
- In the mean time we removed the sails for cleaning and some minor repairs by the local sailmakers.
Typical Marina Boat Lift
- Once the yacht finally came out of the water and was placed in a cradle/stand, it was time to tackle the hull and prepare it for the ravages of this coming season, we had a nice weather window one recent Saturday, so we set about the task in hand.
- Firstly, we made sure all the seacocks were Closed (Top Sailing Tip) before we gave it a pressure wash, which removed most of the weed residue. This tip prevented dirty high pressure water jets penetrating the inside of the yacht and causing a mess!
- Then we used the thin end of a soft wood wedge (Top Sailing Maintenace Tip) to remove any barnacles and the like by gently scraping it across the hull, rudder, propellor/shaft and other fittings etc. This removes verdigris really well and doesn't damage the hull.
Using A Soft Wood Wedge To Remove Verdigris
- At the same time we inspected all the underwater fittings to make sure they were all in good order, in doing so we noticed that the sacrificial anode was about half worn and showed signs of reduction around the fitting bolts, and although it would have most likely last another season or two we decided to fit a new one to be on the safe side, which was an easy task.
Sacrificial Anode Attached To The Hull
- Having donned face masks, hats and goggles, we next gently rubbed any residual material and verdigris away from the hull and fittings, including the bronze propellor shaft and blades etc, using some Alminium Oxide Abrasive Paper (P120 Grade). Top Sailing Maintenance Tip - buy a roll of this and use a soft cork block inside the section of paper when you use it. We took particular care though around the depth sounder transducer window so as not to damage that or the gel coat finish under the residual anti-fouling. On completion we looked like a couple of blueberries from the dust, but it wasn't a difficult task.
- Then we gave the hull a second wash down and left it to dry for a while. but as it was a breezy and sunny day this didn't take long.
- Whilst the hull was drying, we positioned strips of masking tape along the water line to enure that when we applied anti-fouling we didn't get it on the polished hull, and in doing so ensured a nice straight waterline finish. Top Sailing Maintenance Tip - if you are careful, you can tape the whole side of a yacht's hull without breaking the tape and keep the line unbroken, just unroll about a foot of masking tape at a time, position it and smooth it on and repeat the process.
- Once the taping was done and after quick brew and pasties for lunch, we prepared the anti-fouling and poured some into decorators plastic paint trays and used small rollers to apply the anti-fouling paint to to the hull, working from bow to stern and waterline to keel. Again we took care not to cover the depth sounder transducer window or the propellor/shaft and bronze fittings.
- Once the anti-fouling was dry, we carefully removed the masking tape exposing a nice clean waterline.
- Next it was time to polish the hull above the waterline and bring it back to a nice sheen using a silcone car polish.
- This time ashore also afforded a window of opportunity to have some other minor maintenence and alterations undertaken, so it always good to think ahead and arrange any jobs with contractors that need doing.
- Once all this was completed it was time to get the yacht back in the water.
- As the yacht was lifted out of the cradle/stand this exposed the areas on the hull that couldn't be cleaned/painted with anti-fouling - so we grabbed the opportunity to do this quickly. There was sufficient time for the anti-fouling paint to go off too (just!)
- Once back in the water, it was a check of the all the seacocks to ensure the right ones were open or closed. Don't forget engine cooling water (open!) and ensure the water is being pulled through and flowing out of the outlet when you first start the engine. Then it was a quick motor round and back to the marina ponton mooring.
- Again we ensured the yacht was correctly and safely moored and fendered in preparation for any subsequent Spring gales.
- The time it took to clean and prepare and then paint the hull was about 3 - 4 hours only, with 2 people.
- One last thing, I came across this freebie checklist of preps in readiness for the sailing season by Yachting Monthly so thanks to them and hope it is useful to you: Fitting Out Check List
Our next task is to refit the sails, which I am told are ready for collection from the sailmaker, but that will be next week's task so until then good luck with your Sailing Preps.
Martin
P.S. If you like these sailing tips why not send us some feedback to support@sailingtips.co.uk or post a comment below or visit our other sailing tips on our website at www.sailingtips.co.uk/sailingtips
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